Library Book 4

Fashion: Color, Line, and Design
by Susan Geringer
Third Edition

This book has SOOOO much info!! I have been using all of these library books since I got them, but mainly looking for specific things, and not just flipping through idly. I won't be able to take notes on this one like I did on the other ones, because otherwise I will be writing all night long. To give you an idea of the breadth of information that this book covers, I'm going to try to summarize
1. Color
a) Psychology of color and symbolism- how color makes people feel, and traditional colors (white for a western wedding)
in order of preference from liked to less liked, colors are ranked as such: blue, red, green, violet, orange, and yellow
People usually like light more than dark colors, and primaries (red, yellow, blue used to mix all other colors) and pure colors more than intermediates (combination of colors) and grayed ones
introverts like neutral, extroverts like bright, neutral considered more sophisticated
hot climates, cool colors, cool climates, warm colors
Color gives messages and causes reactions- increase heart rate w/ red, decrease w/ blue
favorite colors show personality (my favorite is orange/yellow- orange is exciting and glowing, yellow, most luminous, is cheerful, creative, intellectual, but also least liked because think of sickness and cowardice)
bright colors, good mood, dark colors, bad mood
color/patterns must be used either traditionally, or very unorthodox

Chapter 2- Clothing Details
gives an overview of standard shapes and cuts in clothing (A-line skirt, camisole, dress shirt, draped, blazer, bomber jacket, mandarin, nehru jacket, sweetheart neckline, kimono sleeve etc) and construction detailing (beading, bias, braids, buttons, cording, darts, embroidery, facing, fringe, frogs, hem,  piping...) It goes on for a while, and is very dated (grossly dated... sometimes it makes you cringe. Seriously, a safari jacket?? Pedal pushers?????), and is pretty much vocab, and lists pretty much everything they can think of, so we shall skip this part, though some of the names are funny, like peplum" (pretty much a tunic and a pencil skirt as a suit), however the names are the same as in Library book 2, so that's reassuring!

Chapter 3- Design Lines
Pretty much how to draw... Did you know an S shaped line is called an Ogee? They also talk about angles, silhouettes (tubular, hourglass, bell, etc), proportion, balance, emphasis, rhythm (repetition in pattern, color, trimming, etc), harmony (unity of the look)

Chapter 4- Fashion Drawing
Basic figure drawing, proportion of human body, and the balance line (your spine), drawing clothing around curves, draped cloth, making it how the customer wants it, body size and figure, and color and texture... I think I got this part down

FINALLY
Chapter 5- History of Costume
Pretty much half of the book, and what I was waiting for.
Reasons to wear clothes: Protection, modesty, adornment, status, belonging to a group, sexual attraction (ooh!)
People either like skinny girls, big buts, or big boobs, or a combo (I'm just turning the technical language into straight forward wording, I promise!)
skinny tubular figure was popular when women had power- look like man, popular in ancient Egypt, flappers, WWII, 1980s
Big bust/waist (bell silhouette) when women were weakest (Victorian times, Southern Belles before Civil War, and 1950s poodle skirt)
Supposedly studies by Harris, Uphan, and Co. to show that women's hemlines were directly proportional to the stock market (also mentioned in Lib book 2)
in the 20th century, fashion inspired/influenced by celebrities and films

Egyptians (2800 BC-300 BC)
sun inspired- rays of the sun in pleating/jewelery
body=soul's temple- well kept- sheer, form fitting clothes showed off body, removed body hair, wore wigs, heavy make-up around eyes (mirrors to the soul)
black kohl around eyes also protected from sun
Men wore shenti around waist- triangle shaped like pyramid
women wore transparent linen gowns, or kalasiris, with pleating and collar

Cretans 2500 BC-1100 BC
vain/proud of bodies, small waists, sew own garments so they were original
considered best dressed women in history
small waists due to soldering belts on children at age six for hourglass figure
chiton- two rectangular cloths attached at shoulder, laced at waist
puffed cap sleeve, bolero jacket, and other styles adopted from neighbors

Greeks influenced by Cretans, esp w/ chiton
himation was outergarment- intricately wrapped, social status implied by draping and control of wearer

Middle Ages- we all know how that looked
However, crusades brought eastern cultures
**gothic movement caused pointy cone hats to emerge, or hennin (think princess hat)- sometimes so long needed servant to follow w/ pitchfork- law passed- length determined by husband's profession
Chopines- extremely high platform shoes
bliaud- tight boddice, full skirt, and long, full sleeves w/ low waistline- most common 12-13 centuries
Maternity became popular at one point due to belief that they had found the Virgin Mary's tunic- pregnancy pillow to look pregnant
*codpiece- sac at men's groin which were decorated and stuffed with fabric or even coins :P
16th century
farthingale- stiff structure under skirt to make it poof out
vasquines- iron corsets w/ bolts to flatten breasts, stomacher flattened stomach
perfumes to disguise that people didn't bathe
big ruffed collars- needed long utensils to eat
Pumpkin breeches- for men, padded on the butt so that resembled pumpkins
Seventeenth Century
"Sun King" Louis XIV
lower necklines, massive hair, small cap for mourning with deep point on forehead known as widow's peak
Men wore huge pants, so padded they were like skirts, and a thin cravat, or tie
18th Century
justaucorps (think Mozart)
wigs less popular
after French Rev, outlandish fashions- long tails, jacket left open because too tight, double breasted buttons, trousers completely visible (no tunic), ankle length, not at knee
youth mocked formality of the king- wore more wrinkled, careless look
... goes on and on in great detail on how the fashion transformed slowly over time...
19th century
Greek look
Godey's Lady Book as first fashion magazine
Dandies- well groomed me (think Napoleon)
Sports wear created
painful lacing and bodices, considered distasteful for women to eat in public- fainted
hourglass figure became more popular, some removed ribs to become thinner, monobosom- leaned forward
20th century
confining garments abandoned after WWI (example, "hobble skirt")
flapper emerged 1920s
1930s thin, long, formfitting (evening gown)
WWII manly look w/ suit w/ big shoulders- display of wealth was tasteless
skirts shortened
gloves popular
miniskirt
two-piece suits
hippie
warp dress
punk/disco
90s layering and drabness...



By the way, I think that this is a textbook, since it has "projects" to do after every chapter. Should have done those...?

Library Book 3

Fashion Designer
By Miriam Moss

This book looks at the career and life of a Fashion Designer. It's dated, but a mine of info!!!!

The first chapter talks about how some designers create expensive, extravagant haute couture clothing, and others create ready-to-wear "designer label" clothes using fine materials and taste, and lastly, there are mass market ready-to-wear materials made from cheap materials.
Fashion designers have to constantly adapt to the changing styles, and be able to be under the pressure of many deadlines and long hours.
Chapter 2
Most designers go to design school, where they learn technique as well as art. They also choose whether to specialize in women's, men's, or children's clothing, and then what category to specialize in; sportswear, evening wear, lingerie, knitwear... Many have internships, and enter design competitions for exposure in the field, and eventually jobs.
Many start out as assistants
There are three ways of working as a designer: Free-lance (sell to stores, fashion houses, manufacturers, and are labeled by the companies that buy the clothes), work in-house (designers are employed full time by company), and lastly, designers can choose to start their own company. Some designers don't even have formal training, some do, some are lucky, and some never break out.
Some designers used to be architects... Paco Rabanne "It is very important to have access to other ways of creating because all creation is the same gesture. If you can design a dress, you can design a piece of furniture. You have a feel for technique." This is like my thoughts for learning to make clothes! I know how to paint, now why not try clothing?
Chapter 4
Betty Jackson- "Sometimes you rack your brains for the muse to strike and she doesn't and you get in a panic thinking you'll never think of anything again." I really like this quote, since after Judy said at Carrie's presentation that you must force yourself to create everyday, and you can't wait for the muse, it made me feel guilty. I'm glad I'm not the only one who gets blocks in thought!
Designers don't just sit around and sketch all day. They usually have to meet deadlines, budgets, cope with stress, and work long hours.
Since designers work for seasons, they have to start a season about a year in advance
Each collection has a theme for inspiration
A team: Fashion designer designs shape/style, knitwear picks color combos and patterns, fabric designer designs fabric for fashion designer, assistants, sample makers, pattern makers
Sketch or drape to work out design, or use old patterns
Think about market, season, and cost
Paper pattern, then MUSLIN- muslin copy called toile (Autumn calls it a sloper), then cardboard copy
Inspiration/FUSION
French designer Jean Louis Scherrer inspired by trip to Rajasthan, India- pant suits, turbans, silks
Brit jewelery designer Dinny Hall inspired by classic domes/spirals
Jean-Paul Gaultier inspired by skeleton
JEAN-PAUL GAULTIER

 



















Isaac Mizrahi inspired by Matisse
Irina Burmistrova uses black plastic, gray foam, garbage bags, cable...
LOOK UP ROMEO GIGLI

Chapter Four
Fashion show- buyers come from all over to view completed collections- buyers, rich, and magazines
In Paris, lasts ten days, with over 40 shows, anywhere from the Louvre to the banks of the Seine
Jean-Paul Gaultier used an abandoned bomb shelter
SEARCH AZZEDINE ALAIA

 YOHJI YAMAMOTO

Major Events

fabric exhibition @ Interstoff Clothing Textiles Trade Fair in April and October- new colors predicted two years in advance

Italy (Milan)- clothing is a large industry, purpose to make sleek designs (Georgio Armani, Versace, Benneton)

London- young, innovative fashion, resist conformity, no barriers

*** One of my favorite London brands is All Saint's*** very edgy- you'll have to see the store, 'cause I couldn't find any good pics online

New York City- led by multimillionaires (Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Christian Lacroix, Oscar de la Renta***)

***LOVE Oscar de la Renta!!! One of my first magazine clippings (see wedding dress post) was a dress by him- see images below

Paris- ship samples to New York for Americans- showcase streets are Fifth Avenue (NY), Bond Street (London), Boulevard Saint Germain (Paris)

Funding

financial backing is difficult- as expand, need more money for materials

international- i.e. French designer financed by Japanese, and manufactures in Italy

several price levels so affordable- same look, different fabric, less extravagant cut

Favorite Designers

DUDE!!!!
I just noticed, and I am severely lacking in photographs compared to how I started, and I haven't posted ANYTHING about my inspirations! Perhaps that should be saved for the presentation...? Nah!

1. Alexander McQueen
2. Oscar de la Renta
3. At Sew Green yesterday, we were working with tulle to make fairy tiaras (see Sew Green 6/2) and there was this show that had dresses made of tulle that were SOOOO COOL!!!! They were from www.style.com and the designer was Victor and Rolfe for Spring 2010. Check it out! This is deemed as "ready to wear." Like anyone would wear this on the street!!!
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/S2010RTW-VIKROLF 
(by the way, the reason why I didn't put pics up for this website was because blogger doesn't let you do copy and paste, and the pictures were not entered as separate .jpg sites

In Class 5/31

1. Distribution

• We need to send to our community evaluator, Ms. Lord, our Mentor, and our two classmates who are evaluating us the following:

1. Role of Evaluator sheet
2. Grading Rubric
3. print one copy of EVERYTHING for Ms. Lord. We can put our blog on a CD with the two papers listed above, but we should print the two papers as well in that case.

2. Double space
3. Write a closing entry

• Bring a copy of the final entry if it is not included in the copy submitted five days before

Sample Presentation
What worked?
What do you hope for your project?
What might you borrow?


Involving people by getting them to imagine really worked
I hope to borrow this by...

****SPOILER****


My project was inspired by nature
I can ask the audience to sketch a design which is inspired by nature
For me, I either create from transforming something from nature (Rooster dress), get inspired by nature (Owl Dress), or take from other drawings inspired by nature.

Carrie H talked about the former WISE students that she had talked to about their project, and one of them had been doing jewelery made from recycled materials. She had pictures in the background while she talked (I wanted to do the same!!! I want to have photographs of the sketches in a slideshow, and then the piece itself upfront. I want it to POP and be COLORFUL!!!)
She also had people working on creating jewelery while she was talking, which gave me the idea of having people design clothes while I talk...
Is that copying too much? I was thinking of having my sketches in the background ages ago, so...

Desigual

My parents recently got back from Spain, and they brought back some fantastic clothes! My mom had complained about how Spanish fashion was really drab... until she came to a store called Desigual. The clothes she brought back were far from drab. They were bright and fantastical. In fact, because of the bright colors, people would spot this new, popular brand on the street when my mom wore it in Spain. Everything else was plain, but Desigual was a splash of color in the middle of beige.
At first, I had thought that Desigual was an India brand. Desi means Indian, and the colors were so bright, I couldn't believe that they were coming from Europe. However, the cuts were very European. Looking at the US website unfortunately, the clothes do not stand out as much, since we use more color than the Spanish. Still, it's a fabulous (and very expensive) brand.

Browsing

After going home, and finishing all of my homework, I decided to sit in bed and research pretty bird types. I had fun looking at pretty colors, and got some ideas, but nothing formed itself into clothing :(
Hummingbirds


http://www.animalwebguide.com/Hummingbird.htm















Kingfisher


http://planetbye.blogspot.com/2009/02/king-fisher.html



















http://teifidancer-teifidancer.blogspot.com/2010/11/out-of-blue.html






























http://www.birdwatchersdigest.com/slideshow/gallery.php?Show_ID=3&Slide_ID=209 Great source of bird pics! It also has small summaries about each type of bird- this may be a very useful source for Katherine!

I also found a neat video on the tastes of Men vs. Women in clothing. It wasn't extremely helpful, but it was interesting. I couldn't embed it for some reason, but the link is below
http://shine.yahoo.com/event/the-thread/why-do-men-hate-these-popular-trends-women-love-2467752/

Mentor Meeting 3/29

This is a space filler
It will be filled when I have more time
Talked about last Sew Green visit
Future visit
progress
what I need to do

Went home
researched pretty bird types
had fun looking at pretty colors
ideas

In class...
Lists...

Wow.. I have a lot of writing to get done...

Second Day at Sew Green (3/17)

I didn't write about what happened during my second day at Sew-Green partially because I didn't have time to craft a good journal entry, but mostly because I had difficulty putting it into words. Here it goes:

I was really excited to go to Sew-Green on Thursday, since I thought I would be able to start sewing. Unfortunately, Autumn was sick! I feel guilty for being disappointed, but honestly, I was a little. I wish her the best at getting better! So for the first five minutes, I didn't really know what I should do, since everyone had their own project, and I hadn't really started mine. So I went around, looking at other people's work, while they looked at my sketchbook. It was pretty neat, and I wish I could have had more time to see their work.

Then Wendy called me over to look at my sketchbook. Flipping through my sketchbook, she asked me what my goal was. I told her that I wanted to be able to create five of my sketches. She immediately started trying to tell me that it was not possible, and that I should settle for something less, like just sketching, and then making only one of the dresses I had sketched (the simplest one). But I already know how to draw. I want to learn how to SEW. To say the least, I was crestfallen. I know that fashion design students spend years learning about fashion design, but I want to learn as much as I can, and I don't care if I don't finish all of the garments. I want to try.

I tried not to get too disheartened (or worse, cry!), and put on my game face, saying I just wanted to learn, and didn't care if I never finished, but honestly, as it was I was second guessing myself. Having someone put it so bluntly was really sawing away at my confidence. I need to build a thicker skin.

Thankfully, Gir saved me with a destraction, and she started to teach me about draping. We got out a manniquen and a bunch of different fabrics, and I started draping a pinning the fabric onto the body in a resemblence of a dress. The purpose was to feel the different fabrics, and know how they fall. I think I did pretty well! Check out my work below!

She also got out a book on draping, which was a college level book, and had pages and pages on how to make cuts fit the body by using darts. Darts are the seams around the bust, accounting for the chest. They can be really complex. I didn't know there were that many kinds! There are princess seams, darts at the shoulders, and ones that come up from the waist. There was even one that cut accross the breasts and made a t-shape, though that's not very flattering, and is out of style because it flattens the breast.

Draping is important to know what your style is going to look at. From draping, one can sketch what you drape, or even start cutting and sewing while draping. I also learned about sheaths. Sheaths are when you take a basic cut in muslin, and stretch the cloth so that you have perfect corners, and a perfect fit in muslin. Then you can use this muslin template to make more of the same style, or edit the cut to have sleaves, darts in different places, or different versions of the same shape. I will probably be using sheaths at some part, since Autumns said I should use similar bases in my sketches, and build on similar cuts. The only problem is that they are very time consuming and difficult to make, so most people don't use them.

After I was done draping, I took a look at two saris that Gir was planning on buying, and as we were about to leave, I caught out of the corner of my eye a piece of faux fur that would be perfect for my Owl sketch! Wendy let me keep it as a gift, and even gave me a special box to keep it in! I was really excited.

We then started talking about manniquens. I had seen some duck-taped mannequins that people had made to fit their own bodies, and asked how it was done. Basically you wear an old t-shirt and get taped all around with duck tape. Then the duck-tape cast is cut off of you, and stuffed, and you have your own model! I was really excited at first, thinking I would have a really cheap mannequin, when suddenly I thought about the duck tape. When I asked Wendy how much it took, she said I would need 3 rolls, or 15 dollars worth! I know this may not sound like much, but with my $100 budget, it would be really a blow on my finances. I don't know if I'll be able to make one, at least not right away. Right now, my plan of using myself and stuffed animals seems like my cheapest alternative.

Then we had to leave, since a class was starting. On the way out though, Wendy asked me if I realized that Gir was just a helper, and that I was not Gir's apprentice. I wonder why she asked me that? I know that Autumn is my mentor, and I hope that I was not imposing on Gir. After all, it wasn't very busy that day, and Gir had been really excited to teach me draping.

I hope that at the next Sew-Green session, I will be able to start on my dress, and if not, be able to start learning how to make a certain kind of garment, even if it's a simple t-shirt.

Oh! One last thing! At my first Sew-Green meeting, I seemed to have lost an article that was one of my main inspirations. I was really sad about it, but then I did a thourough search on the internet, and what do you know? After about three search sessions, I found it hidden in someone's wedding blog! It's an Oscar de la Renta wedding gown! I love Oscar de la Renta. I posted it below. Enjoy!

http://honeybeeweddings.blogspot.com/2010/09/i-love-you-oscar-de-la-renta.html

Mentor Meeting 3/15

Since we had been told to bring in something from our project to share in class on Tuesday, I decided to have our mentor meeting on Tuesday instead. Besides, last week it was on a Monday, so we're a little off, and that's okay. Sometimes we talk about the project outside of our meetings too, so I guess we have an ongoing series of newsflashes.
Anyway, today I showed her my sketchbook for the first time. I really like how Ms. Lasher boosts my confidence, and convinces me that I'm not doing a bad job, and that I'm on track. Sometimes I need that when I'm being really critical. We looked at the sketches so far (I'm sorry I haven't shown you the flat sketches so far, they're coming!), and I talked to her about my newer designs (also coming).
One design, (that's not up yet) was something inspired by Project Runway. It's made of muslin (like the episode when they had to design a dress made from a potato sack), and it's ultra cheap, but ultra mod and almost a prom dress. It's really awesome, but I was having trouble connecting it to the theme that I chose of Birds of a Feather (I just came up with that title. I like it!!). It is in the natural color of muslin (of white/tan), and is really natural looking, with a really modern cut, and champagne tulle (I've been spelling it wrong) that makes it suddenly a lot more sophisticated. At first I tried to alter the neckline, and make it a zip up neck that looks like a beak, but I think that that design will have to be for a different dress. Then, Ms Lasher gave me the awesome idea that it's the Bird's Nest, and I added that the model would wear a chunky turquoise necklace for the robins eggs! It was PERFECT. I had been so set on this dress, I would have been really disappointed to drop it just because of it not fitting with the theme, so I was really excited to be able to use this design. Ms Lasher also voiced a concern that if it's not sewn correctly, the pleating might make the model look pregnant, so when I went home, I looked at my prom dress, to see how it had been pleated, and copied the sewing technique onto my flat sketches. Finally, we thought that perhaps the tulle could be replaced with frayed burlap, making it even more green and cheap, but edgier at the same time.
I love Ms. Lasher. She gives me such good ideas!

Project Runway

I've found out that the show, Project Runway, is actually pretty helpful with learning about the designing process. One of my friends told me that it's on Hulu, so now, instead of watching TV, I will be able to watch this show during my free time instead. It's a fashion competition, so there's lots of critiques on style and craftsmanship. It's not very detailed in terms of technique, or anything like that, but it's a fun show to watch and get inspired from.

2011 NY Fashion Week

The photographs for the 2011 New York Fashion Week were posted. They look awesome! Good inspiration.

Vivienne Tam has a really interesting dress that seems to incorporate elements of a kimono (first picture in the series). I don't know if I like the fabric, but the sleeves are definately something I might want to incorporate, as well as the slit in the dress, layered with a diferent fabric.


My favorite designer of the series would probably be Prabal Gurung. He uses a lot of chiffon, and fine fabrics, creating a flowing affect, and he's not afraid of color.

He also mixes fabrics that one wouldn't normally think of putting together, and although unrealated, they fit the body very well. (see below)

Lastly, not only did he use similar fabrics to create a flow, but all of his dresses were worn with crossed stockings, bringing the collection together. It seems that collections really are series that need something to group them as one. I guess for my super mini collection, I'll need a basic theme.